By Shubham
In the summer of 2015, during the last week of June, we set out on a trip that would engrave memories into our hearts forever. It was one of those spontaneous plans, made with no strict itinerary, no booked accommodations—just the open road and a thirst for adventure. Himanshu, Ankur, and I had only one goal in mind: To get leh’d
Day 1: The Bus to Katra
Our journey began at the Red Fort in Delhi, from where we boarded a bus to Katra. The evening had a calmness to it, but little did we know the kind of experiences that awaited us. With no detailed plans and no clear idea of where we’d stay, we prepared for the unexpected, knowing that the best memories often come from the unplanned moments.
Day 2: Arrival in Jammu and The Road to Srinagar
We reached Jammu early the next morning. From there, we spent a while exploring options to reach Srinagar. Eventually, we decided on a shared cab, which seemed like the most affordable and convenient option.
The drive between Jammu and Srinagar was both mesmerizing and unsettling. Along the route, we saw the remains of a terrorist attack that had happened just a few months prior—bombed-out buildings and the eerie signs of destruction. It served as a grim reminder of the region’s volatility. By the evening, we found ourselves in Srinagar, a city divided in spirit and geography.
Srinagar was in the midst of Ramadan, which lent a certain peacefulness to the surroundings, particularly near Dal Lake, where the city seemed to stand still in scenic beauty. But our stay was in the downtown area, where the atmosphere felt a bit tense. All around us, we saw graffiti and signs like “Indians Go Back” on houses, adding to the fear we couldn’t shake off. Yet, we carried on with the day, trying to absorb the rich culture and diversity of the city.
Day 3: Drass and The Kindness of Strangers
The next day, we set off towards Kargil, with a brief stop at Drass, a town famous for being the site of the Kargil War Memorial. Standing on the road in Drass, we waited, hoping to hitch a ride. A local man named Sarfraaz, noticing us stranded, offered us a place to rest at his home. His hospitality was heartwarming. We were treated to a traditional Kashmiri meal of kava (Kashmiri tea), khamir roti, and rich butter. Sarfraaz shared stories of the war, recounting how the Indian Army had saved them during dangerous times.
After a while, we got back on the road and were lucky to get a lift from a local traveler. By evening, we arrived in Kargil, where we met another kind soul who helped us find a place to stay. Though the accommodation was far from perfect—it was essentially a store crawling with cockroaches—we couldn’t complain. Exhausted, we had dinner at a local spot and prepared ourselves for the final leg of our journey.
Day 4: The Road to Leh and an Unexpected Twist
Our fourth day on the road was perhaps the most thrilling. After breakfast with some friendly locals, we headed along the Indus River, hoping to catch a ride to Leh. The cabs were way beyond our budget, so we waited by a bridge, relying on our luck once again. Eventually, we flagged down a truck driver who agreed to take us for free.
The truck ride, however, came with its own set of complications. After a brief stop for tea, things took a dark turn late at night. Around 12:30 AM, as we rode through the mountains, we spotted the famous YouTuber, Mumbiker Nikhil, zooming by on his bike. That gave us a boost of excitement, but soon, the ride turned tense.
At around 2 AM, we arrived in Leh, but something felt off. The truck driver, who had been friendly throughout the journey, suddenly demanded ₹4000 from us, an absurd amount given that we could’ve taken a cab for less. Himanshu and I were unloading our bags, while Ankur stayed behind to settle things with the driver. Ankur negotiated to pay the unreasonable fare, and the driver, enraged, hit the gas, dragging Ankur along in the moving truck.
In a moment of panic, Ankur jumped from the moving vehicle, injuring his leg in the process. The driver, furious, reversed the truck at full speed, seemingly intent on harming us. There were two policemen standing nearby, but they did nothing to intervene. Fortunately, after a heated argument, the driver relented, took ₹2000, and drove away.
Finally, we made it to Otsal Guest House, run by one of my friends in Changspa. Shaken but relieved, we settled in for the night, knowing that the worst was behind us.
This journey was filled with more twists and turns than we could’ve anticipated—both literally and figuratively. Yet, it taught us the value of friendship, the kindness of strangers, and the undeniable thrill of an unplanned adventure. This was only the beginning of our time in Leh, and there were more stories to unfold in the days ahead.
Stay tuned for the next part of our journey!
